Photo by: Gaz Leah

With a career spanning 18 years, Kai Lightner is widely regarded as a climbing phenom and cultural trailblazer within his sport. Winning his first national title at the age of 10, Kai has amassed 12 national titles, 6 Pan-American Titles, and 5 Youth World medals, including winning the Youth World Championships in 2014.  Kai’s impressive resume extends to outdoor climbing as well. By 15, he accomplished the grade 5.14d (9a) and has since done the first ascent of a 5.15a (9a+).  He is also one of few athletes in the world to ever climb three 5.14d (9a) or higher routes in one week.   These accomplishments have garnered him worldwide attention, including features on NBC News, ABC World News, The Disney Channel, The Today Show, a Got Milk commercial, and GQ Magazine, in addition to global endorsement deals.  

Throughout Kai’s career, he has stood out as one of few Black climbers in the industry.  He has openly spoken about the negative experiences he faced as a youth climber pursuing a sport where marginalized communities are significantly underrepresented.  In August 2020, Kai founded the nonprofit organization Climbing for Change (C4C) to address cost, access, and stigma barriers contributing to this participation gap.  Through his nonprofit organization, Kai has developed climbing programs and helped hundreds of individuals across the United States enjoy rock climbing and outdoor recreation activities. His accomplishments and community work have earned him many awards and recognitions, including the American Alpine Club Robert Hicks Bates Award; this award honors young climbers who show "outstanding promise for future accomplishment."  He was also awarded the US Olympic and Paralympics (USOPC) Team Hope Award for his “outstanding commitment to service within their communities”. In 2016, Kai was recognized by NBC News as one of 28 minority “game changers, all under the age of 28, that are breaking barriers and making a difference”. 

Kai has been a keynote speaker for corporate and motivational events for years, including Jensen Hughes (international risk-based engineering and consulting firm), the International Climber’s Festival, the 2023 Winter Outdoor Retailer Show, and the North Star Foundation.  He has also served as a guest lecturer at the University of Wisconsin, Babson College, Ohio State University, and Brown University. 

Kai received his bachelor’s degree in business management from Babson College in Boston, Massachusetts. 

DOB: 8/21/1999

Started Climbing: Age 6

Favorite Crag: The Red River Gorge

Coach: Shane Messer

Don’t fear being different.....Always follow your dreams.
— Kai Lightner